The territory of modern Turkey is literally littered with legendary monuments - Hellenistic, Byzantine and Ottoman. But along with Troy, Miletus, and the city of Istanbul remained associated with the history of early Christianity. Of course, it is hardly possible to talk about the architecture of apostolic times. The first church was just praying houses, from which is now no trace. However, the locations themselves are preserved, served as the arena for the formation of great faith, and lyrics that tell about the formation of - more than enough targets to go in the footsteps of the early Christians in Asia Minor. Besides, this way in the free sequence repeats most famous route, the third journey of Paul, about the ... He then joined the plateau, and came to Ephesus. 
In search of a nonexistent.
Now on the plateau thus, cutting through the rays of a single cloud in the sky, the sun goes down. We go up the hill among the ruins of ancient Hierapolis, leaving behind the white travertine terraces of Pamukkale. An amazing place where the fantastic nature and ancient history merged into an indivisible whole, as happened with the ancient tombs, which on the local slope rooted in calcareous sediments and appear to be snow-covered houses from a distance. Punched out of the ground around the keys, rich calcareous salts. It is these salt deposits line the slope running down to his snow-white cascades, hanging from the rocks and icicles fringe the travertine terraces, filled with warm water. And above them, on the plateau, climbing higher and higher, scattered remnants of the ancient city, known at least since the III century BC. e. , Are now being excavated by Italian archaeologists. Tourists wandering around here late at night in flocks, alternating taking baths in the puddles with a tour of the vacant ruins. 
Are found in these flocks and guides. They tell the tourists a lot of useful and certainly immediately forgettable detail - about the types of coffins, and the water supply system in the ancient city. Guides lead the curious on the agora, the cemetery and the main shopping street of Hierapolis. But to martirionu ( place of martyrdom ), St. Philip gets barely a tenth of groups. In the field ... 
Philip, on the tomb which is said ierapolskoy in all the guidebooks, appears in the fifth row of the Apostles. In his Life says that when he came to Hierapolis, where ... These can include a Sabazios - Supreme Phrygian deity, whom the Greeks identified with Dionysus. The symbol Sabazios in Phrygia and in fact served as a serpent, so that the sacred asp could easily live in a temple. However, even if it is, from the ... This is not surprising, given the fact that the tradition of the apostle says: ... Among the healed was the wife of the ruler of the city Anfipata to adopt Christianity. At the instigation of the priests of the temple viper Anfipat orders to crucify the holy apostles Philip and Bartholomew. At this time, an earthquake, and all those present at the judgment seat was covered with earth. Crucified on the cross, the temple viper Apostle Philip prayed for the salvation of his crucified. Seeing this happen, the people believed in Christ and began to demand removal from the Cross of the apostles. The Apostle Bartholomew, taken from the cross, was still alive, and he baptized all those who believe and put them to the bishop. The Apostle Philip, through whose prayers, all but Anfipata and priests, were alive, he died on the cross. In the year 560 his relics were transferred to Rome, in the crypt of the Basilica of the Twelve Apostles, where they are now. However, after reaching built in the beginning of V century martiriona from which preserved the foundation of the walls, ceilings and few columns, we read on the board established by the Italians: ... During the journey we have yet not once have to deal with such contradictions. 
By leading a holy place of the monumental staircase rises in the meantime a group of young Englishmen, accompanied by a guide. Wait until he finishes the story, I ask - Is there still is the grave of the apostle? . When I go a few steps from this group, you can hear the tour guide behind me commented: ... Sounds pretty sad, but maybe he's right?.
When the British and their skeptical guide were leaving, we noticed a small, very old stove in the middle of the central octagon. Now it seems that this is a key element of the composition and that the temple was built around it. I rejoice, as though we made a small opening, and not even a matter of wonder, whether the empty tomb, if it is.
We descend from the martiriona to our car, which just today started way from Antalya, where the apostle Paul went on his first trip to the peninsula. In Turkey there were seven of the largest Christian communities - Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamum, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia and Laodicea. All of them were founded by the Apostle Paul or his disciples in the 40- 50s I century. Later they took under the patronage of St. John, who gathered around him in Ephesus many students - the future of the Church Fathers.
Its patrimony began near - near the ruins of the Phrygian city of Laodicea, eight kilometers from Hierapolis.
Until the 60s Mr.. e. persecutors of the Christians were not the Romans, and countrymen, Jews. Then the followers of Jesus were too few, and they were too far away to attract the attention of the imperial administration. But the fellow countrymen accused them of wanting to destroy the Temple in Jerusalem - a symbol of power and God's chosen people the Jews. This is the case described in the Gospel of John ( 2:19) when Christ drove the merchants from the temple courtyard. Then said Jesus to prove his right to act like the Pharisees answered, ... Under the temple of Christ was referring to his body, but this is one of the Pharisees did not understand. In the mouths of false witnesses ... 26:61 ). So did the metaphor of a sentence. This is a reference to that image in his sermons was stoned to death the holy deacon Stephen. The same thing happened with St. James - half brother of Jesus ( the son of Joseph from his first marriage ). Against the Christians were, even so-called Ebionites ( in Aramaic ... They are also called Judeo- Christian. Ebionites regarded themselves as Jews: they feared the Temple and the Torah, to follow the accepted norms of behavior. Christ, they are referred to as ...
However, after the suppression of uprisings by the Romans for the independence of Judea (66-70 years, n. e. ), When the Emperor Titus destroyed the Temple in Jerusalem, as the Ebionites were persecuted: Jews believed that Jesus fulfilled the desire. As a result, they turned to a small sect in northern Israel, the Jordan. But do not think that the 12 apostles of Christ parted in the middle of the I century Palestine, fearing for his life. So they told Jesus before ascension (Matt.. 28:19 ). Each apostle was pulling lots of land in which he followed God's will for. In Asia Minor, departed three: Philip, Bartholomew, and John. However, and others had held the land in its path. Asia Minor was already was a cauldron of religion, a kind of spiritual crossroads of many peoples. Over the centuries, these lands formed a special environment of absolute religious tolerance and mystic receptivity to new religious trends. 
That is why the idea of Christianity found here quick response. There is not one of the Apostle, who would not set foot on the land of Asia Minor, not to mention the dozens of saints, who worked there later, his miracles. Here looking for the tomb of the Virgin and Mary Magdalene. Finally, it was first introduced the term ... At the time, when in 313 the Roman Emperor Constantine made Christianity the state religion in Asia Minor had already had its own martyrs, its preachers, patriarchs and theologians. So this land for 700 years ( before the separation of the churches in 1054 ) became the center of Christian life. In IV-V centuries in Asia Minor cities ( Nicaea, Constantinople, Ephesus, Chalcedon ) were the first ecumenical council, which approved the dogmas of Christianity. Its meaning is not lost in Asia Minor and in the Byzantine Empire - the heiress of the Eastern Roman Empire - until its conquest by the Turks in 1453. On a huge hill, surrounded by tall and intact, without a single blemish, mesh, and overgrown with dry grass and thorns, it is slowly being excavated. A large area of the former is found only a couple of buildings, and even rise up the column in the agora, and a steep hill lined with a giant amphitheater. The sun bakes mercilessly, and the circle is not a single tree. Apparently, for these reasons that tourists do not carry nearly here.
In Laodicea, we are driven by the hope of finding the ruins of one of the seven churches mentioned in Revelation, - or rather, the building, which is reasonably believed in religious scholars of modern times such as Renan and Strauss, there was ...
On the set in the ruins of the shield, we read that at the beginning of our era the city became rich through the production of quality wool and the development of banking. Only one word is said about us to the right of the church, even though it should be also read out the message of Colossians, the Apostle Paul addressed to all Christians in Laodicea and Hierapolis, and (Number of. 2, 1). However, even when viewed from the amphitheater we came across an abandoned ruin. The only thing that remains of the buildings in the relative safe - is the apse, according to which - in front of us the ruins of the basilica of Byzantine times. In the I century AD. e. such buildings stand here, of course, could not. Maybe the basilica was built on the site of the church itself - but who is now a set? .
The closer to the Aegean Sea, the softer and more varied colors, even the climate is changing, and now the windows machine fills the cool rain, which is among the dried grasses Laodicea, probably, would have seemed a miracle. Just before reaching Smyrna, we turn to Selcuk, that is, translated into the language of a more ancient geography, Ephesus. In addition to the grand ruins of ancient cities here are a house of Our Lady, the tomb of the Apostle John the Theologian, the ruins of another one of them mentioned in the Apocalypse of churches, the church, which hosted the III Ecumenical Council, and the so-called Grotto of the ... With the latter due to a legend: during the reign of Emperor Decius (249-251 ), seven young men, Christians fleeing Romans, took refuge in a cave, where they were immured pursuers. The next morning they were awakened by an earthquake that opened the entrance to the cave and returned to the city, found themselves in the V century, when Christianity became the state religion. The tradition came to us in the Christian documents, the VI century, but the most interesting thing is that these events are mentioned in the Koran (Sura 18). Later on the site of this cave, located about 8 kilometers from the ancient city, was built the temple, the ruins of which today are open to tourists. House of the Virgin Mary in Ephesus - a place of pilgrimage not only Christians but also Muslims. 
We decide to start our examination of early Christian sites with ... We know that Jesus entrusted the care of his mother to his beloved disciple John. The fact that Mary was indeed subsequently lived in his house, the Christian church is one. But the question of where Mother spent the last few years, and fell asleep, the differences begin. If the Orthodox theologians argue that the Virgin Mary died in Jerusalem, the Roman Catholics tend to believe that it happened in Ephesus. In particular, they refer to the vision of a very sick German nun Catherine Emmerich, which in the beginning of the XIX century, described in detail where we are now. She saw scenes from the life of the Virgin and St. John at Ephesus, where she had never been, and when she appeared, and the stigmata - the wounds on the ground bloody wounds of the crucified Christ - this has caused considerable public interest in the nun. To her, even granted the German poet Clemens Brentano, who composed the stories from her book ... At the end of the XIX century the clergy who read this book, one after another went to the research expedition to Ephesus, and with the same success took on the place, exactly as described nun. In those days, located 15 kilometers from this mountain village inhabited by many Christians, and found that on the day of the Assumption at them from time immemorial, it was decided to come here. Later, there have been excavated and preserved the ruins of the apse have discovered the foundations of VI century, and under it a little more fiber, I dated a century. Now the house has been restored and converted into a temple, it is a motley crew monastic - friendly young Italian, a stern old Indian and two nuns - Polish girl and an American. 
If about the burial place of God, there are different versions, then at the tomb of St. John the Evangelist is no doubt: it is located next to the medieval fortress, which we have seen from the highway. We turn to brown pointer Saint John. Almost immediately on the right - the big gate, which says that the castle is closed. However, they opened the gates at the same time, and going to them, we find ourselves seated among the roses, well-kept ruins, over which hangs a fortress wall, as if covered with two giant Turkish flags and the same size portrait of Ataturk - the first president of Turkey.
In the IV century on the site of the tomb was built a small church with a wooden roof, and after 200 years under the emperor Justinian built this huge basilica with six domes, each of which reached a height of 30 meters. Now it remained only on the floor boards and a few rows of white columns, and amid the soft close of the sky, adorned with a wide rainbow, it seems that they may well do without domes, it is - the temple, open up. Here, on a large, two human growth time hewn pedestal of red brick made a nest Stork. Time of evening, and apart from us in the ruins of almost no one. Only among the columns of some effusive young man on his knees, fall to the marble slab. Plate is installed at the time of the visit of the Pope in the 70s of last century, and under it, as the inscription lies John the Evangelist. However, on a block of brick, topped with stork's nest, there is a similar sign. It may be due to a block of jack plate look much authentic.
Arising out of the ground like an elderly little man in working clothes as if reading my thoughts. ... Then, waving his hand toward the marble slabs, disparaged grins. ... ... Here, look here ... It seems to me that someone who is sprinkled by no one guarded the splendor of the land, very well, and thinks, anyway, goes quite right. But the Turks, pacing back and forth as if looking for something on the ground, continues to complain about the stupidity of government and a small salary. It seems to me that he was asking for baksheesh. But his more ambitious intentions. Making sure that no one is, he takes from his pocket a rag, which wrapped up ancient coins. Then I met more than once sellers of antique coins in the ruins. But that compared to them - the actor, but in addition, the handsome. ... And as with any passion he bit them and threw stones on, when we questioned the authenticity of the coins. From an ethnographic interest in the auction, we have entered, and then I was already uncomfortable for him to turn back and walk away. Moreover, he has worked here for 15 years and has five children and a good-natured and red, even if not from embarrassment, face. ... ... Yes, here he is right, the black archeology names a lot, but the essence is... known as the Apostle John the beloved disciple of Jesus, the author of the fourth Gospel and the Apocalypse. Together with the apostle Andrew was the first to whom Christ has called to follow him. Some scientists even suggest that John was a cousin of the coming of Christ. Like it or not, but anyway, John was the only apostle who stood at the Cross, and to whom Jesus entrusted the care of his mother. In the apostolic lot John went to Ephesus - the capital of the Roman province of Asia. Probably, in this journey the apostle went with Virgin, although according to other sources, Mary at this time preached in Armenia and Georgia.
Whatever it was, the last years of her life she spent with John in a small house at Ephesus. The very same Apostle began in the province antiyazycheskuyu war, accompanied by many miracles. However, during the persecution of Christians under the emperor Domitian (reigned 81-96 years) was arrested and sent to trial in Rome.
Staying in the capital of the empire of John was also accompanied by miracles: it had no effect either poison or boiling oil. Disappointed with the intent to execute the saint, the emperor sent him into exile on the island of Patmos. It was there, according to one version, and were written and the Gospel and the Apocalypse. In Ephesus, where, perhaps, the apostle of the gospel, and ended, he managed to return only when the emperor Nerva (ruled 96-98 years). There he spent the rest of my days. And again, not without miracles.
There are apocryphal, is quite popular in medieval Europe, according to which John is not dead. Just like the patriarch Enoch or the prophet Elijah, he was one of those who had been granted eternal life in the fulfillment of the prophecy of Christ: ... 16:28 ). According to legend, the 120- year life of St. John asked the seven favorite pupils buried alive. Learning of this, the rest of the Christians of Ephesus have unearthed the grave. It was empty. But every year on May 8 the land at this place and many streamed myrrh, touching her, healed. Not having to look up to the Basilica of St. John the sunset, go back the next morning. A day at this time is completely different, a clear, transparent. When we get to the temple, the sun was at its zenith. And all around him - that I noticed when entering the gates of the basilica - a giant ring of lights - halo. Hour and a half ago in the skies over Izmir is nothing in sight there was no. Here is a special place, whether we undeservedly lucky. After yesterday's rainbow and this today, totally outlandish beauty seems to me that the cathedral John is always something wonderful happening. With a triumphant air - say, how do you like our John? .
However, whether I am right, calling John ... Yet John had spent many years as can be, and most of his long life, but because he also makes the atmosphere of this place a reconciling and unifying spirit. Coming from a nearby mosque sounds of daily prayers of Muslims do not take any the slightest discord with Christian shrine. Yes, and the mosque itself is built of stone basilica of St. John the Evangelist, and on its roof a stork had built another nest the same as at the tomb of the Apostle.
Solar halo of the day is over all Ephesus. Shine it on the well-preserved and restored ruins of ancient city. The first thing that strikes you is entering its territory - the scale of the local theater. In general, travel on ancient ruins make it possible to completely definite conclusion - less likely to suffer from the time the tombs, and theaters. In this case, maybe even signed a symbolic meaning, but it 's better to judge others. I now judge the size of the theater of Ephesus, what helps me to picture a modern tourist impairs the crane, which does not rise, as would be expected, but rather lost in the background of the ...
The word ... When Paul arrived at Ephesus, and drew many local residents in the Christian faith, it's not like in the first chaser who made copies of the famous silver temple of Artemis ( one of it is preserved, only the column, I think, specially restored in our day, so that tourists could imagine . Chasers, grabbing Paul's companions, the inhabitants of Ephesus convened in the theater, where about two hours, chanting: ... 19, 34-40 ).
On the signature of ancient ruins in modern day Turkey is not so often you can find Christian symbols. Perhaps the best it has been preserved near the ruins of St. John the Evangelist Church.
The vast space of the church, which was held III ( Ephesus ) Ecumenical Council, is now open to all winds, but rather well-preserved one of the apses, the set of columns, floor slabs and a few even the baptismal font. As in other ancient cities, where we visited the ruins of the basilica stand apart from the main shopping street ( lower right of the entrance to the hilt ), and few turns in the lead there, bordered by tall grass path. The first church on this site was built in the IV century, next to the house, where, as recorded in the minutes of the Council of Ephesus, lived on arrival at Ephesus, Virgin Mary. Then there were erected two large cathedral, so it turned out a huge church complex. Space of the two churches were stretched, one after another grand suite.
Passing through it we see under the feet of mosaic. The paint has faded, but the colors can still be found - yellow, red and blue. Mosaic of places still holding out on the foundation and around the stones have fallen and crumbled. I remember the mosaic covered with earth near the grave of St. John the Divine, and this decision seems even wiser than before... In the Antalya Archaeological Museum exhibits the remains found by Italian archaeologists in the sarcophagus of the church of St. Nicholas at Myra. However, the generally accepted version, there are relics of the saint of Bari general, for all the abundance of myths and legends associated with Saint Nicholas, we know very little about it. Known to us the image of Nicholas of Myra is actually absorbed the traits of biography yet another saint is also a native of Lycia - Pinarskogo Nicholas, who lived two centuries later. Which of the extant Lives refers to one, and that to the other - are extremely difficult to establish. However, what is more commonly known Nicholas was born in Patara and then was elected Archbishop of Myra, we can say with confidence. Life of St. reported that his parents had been infertile for a long time. The birth of a son they perceived as a divine gift and vowed to dedicate the child to God. Nicholas lived up to their expectations: early childhood he showed a sincere religious zeal, standing day and night in prayer without food, and despite the cold, filling the stone church in the fall and winter. Being already a bishop, Nicholas not only preached the word of God, and miracles of mercy. So once the holy learned that an old citizen of Myra broke. His wife died long ago, leaving a wife and three daughters. The situation was hopeless, and the family council decided that the daughter will be engaged in prostitution to support themselves and the old father. Hearing this, Saint Nicholas came to the house at night and at the bedside of each of his daughters had left for the bags filled with gold coins (to have a dowry, and had enough ). It was born from that time the custom of putting Christmas presents in stockings. Nicholas is not just saving the weak, and falsely accused of drowning. Almost immediately after his death, which occurred between 342 and 351 years, the relics of the saint began to stream myrrh, and to heal. In the tenth century Asia Minor began to besiege the Muslims, and in the 1086 worlds were plundered hard. To this was added an environmental disaster - the area was swamped, its covered with a thick layer of sand and mud. To save the shrine, the residents of the Italian city of Bari April 20, 1087 fitted out an expedition of three ships. Under the guise of traders Italians entered the town at night and stole the remains of the saint. Since they are located in St. Nicholas Cathedral in the city. Today, the Turkish authorities are actively seeking the return of the relics to their historical homeland, even planning to appeal to the international court in The Hague. By the way, Turkey is not just St. Nicholas is venerated as the protector of the poor and fishermen, but also is something of a legendary national hero. But Christians are hardly ever agree to part with one of its main shrines. In medieval chronicles have information about the famous miraculous icon of St. John, which, unfortunately, lost in the era of iconoclasm (VIII - IX centuries). She was kept in Myra Myra ( Demre present ) in the Sinai Temple, where the IV century made life sacred, and where Nicholas was destined to end our journey.
On the way to the Worlds, Demre, we looked into the seaside town of Patara, where it is believed, in the second half of III century birthplace of the Bishop of Myra. This place is in vogue among Western tourists, and they can be understood. Imagine a white sandy beach, rolling in the ruins of the ancient city and around - the green rural idyll. On the west coast of Turkey, the sea receded, and the former harbor, such as Ephesus, were a few kilometers away from the shore. Here, in Patara, such large-scale changes have taken place - except that added a huge sandy beach, where people come to lay eggs sea turtles. Yes, and another one next time: until recently, the ancient ruins of Patara were half buried under the sand and gave the impression of the city, lost in the desert. Now and entry arch, theater and basilica unearthed, but among all these attractions there are no traces of the house, the birthplace of St Nicholas. Maybe he just does not even dug out? . The main plot of images - scenes from the saint's life.
Did not survive and the church at Myra, where according to legend, he was elected archbishop. When 17 centuries ago, the head of the Diocese of Myra died, he was a long time could not find a replacement. While one of the oldest bishops in the vision is not an angel, who commanded him to become a night in the narthex and monitor those who first come to the morning service - this pleases the Lord, and my husband has become the head of the diocese. That's got his church San Nicholas. It should be noted that the Turkish tour guides in their own editing this story, saying that he first came down from the ship, sailed on the day of Worlds. Apparently, the habit of communicating with tourists makes them seen in the St. Nicholas newcomer traveler....
This temple, which served as Nicholas after his election, was destroyed by an earthquake. And in the early Middle Ages, near the spot where he stood, built a huge basilica, also suffered badly over the subsequent centuries. She is now partially restored and taken away by a horizontal overhang, and in front of her instead of the bronze monument to St. Nicholas, established in 2000, stands on a pedestal in a plastic Santa Claus, though rearranged here to pre-Christmas shop window or under a Christmas tree. In Turkish it is called ... As it turned out, ... In turn, Turkey has claimed that their version of ... In the end, the Turks gave way, and in 2006 returned the statue to the temple area. However, they did not put him on a pedestal in the form of the old world, which is located on the ground in front of the temple, but modestly, in one of the church door. The Archaeological Museum of Antalya exhibited the remains found by Italian archaeologists in the sarcophagus of the church of St. Nicholas at Myra. However, the generally accepted version, the relics of the saint are in Bari.
By the way, so misguided about the local shrines arose between the two powers in the XIX century. In 1850 a large plot of land on which stands the church, was purchased in the name of Princess Alexandra Galitzine. The restoration began only after 10 years - has prevented the Crimean War. Work was supervised by the French architect Auguste Salzmann. For several years, was 6500 cubic meters of excavation of land resumed vaults and walls of the main nave and the side of the gallery and two chapels. And in 1877 began the Russian- Turkish war. Protection of the church entrusted Athonite monks, but they soon returned to their monastery on Mount Athos. After hostilities ended in 1878, the Turks found abandoned temple and gave it to the Greek church, once again not to give land to a potential enemy. During the last restoration in the church was completely restored frescoes IX-XI centuries. The result exceeds all expectations. Remembering his visit here six years ago, I see clearly in front of him appeared on the altar stone plaque in Russian: ... Holy place ... Now here was a sign would have been unnecessary - after all the restorers were able to return to the temple proper solemnity.
To our countrymen, Turkey - however, in most cases it is not biblical - has long been the most attractive tourist country in the world. I would like to just so that people who come to Asia Minor, understand and feel for how important for our common spiritual history of the earth they walk. Really, after all, even far from the religious exaltation citizens understand and feel it, say, Jerusalem or on the Sea of Galilee. So, Turkey, ramblers along and across the foot of the great saints, who had heard of speech and of the Apostle Paul, and Nicholas, are no less worthy of.
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